Mamallupuram.....

Exiting the city of Chennai in an auto rickshaw took almost 30 minutes and as the air thickened as well as the traffic, I counted my blessings for this sweet escape...
Help from a kind gentlemanat the bus stand ensured that the correct bus was taken. At first I was rather shy about the actual elbow activity from the bodies crowding the bus door but after missing the first opportunity to get on and needing to wait for the next one I realized that it is merely the necessity of a successful entrance aboard your chariot! Without an hesitation, expect to protect the pregnant mother ahead of me, I jumped in there like Muhammud Ali and 'ta da!' off I was to a land of palm trees and the seaside...
I crawled my way past the bodies on the bus and sat in the very back with a couple of young men. The usual question, 'Madam, which country?' was answered and in return I had a couple about the price of the bus and the estimated time of the trip.
It was a boiling day in the city and the wind through the small bus window provided some solace after the 'fight' to another land...
As we moved further and further down the coastal highway the more the groups of palm trees appeared. Soon on my left the ocean appeared in it's magestic turquoise green and blue hue that cooled my overheated spirit even in the distance...
Fishing boats dot the coastline and with the meditative mission of the fisherman to repair damaged nets. Dogs play under the trees and some relax lounging in the sand...The road is shared with flocks of lambs, herds of cows with their colourful horns of yellow, red, green and blue adorn with bells which all join together in harmony as they leisurely wander by, mouths chewing and eyes luminious...
I arrive at the bus stop to the entrance of Mamallupuram and immediately take an auto into the little village. It is somewhat like a mini version of Chennai in some ways in a secluded setting with a great deal of similarity.
The Lakshmi Guesthouse has a room available and so I take it for 2 nights at 450rupees a night. I have intuitively decided that I will not head down to Pondicherry and will instead just rest here as much as possible for the two days...
As I am unpacking, a rainstorm comes in and for 30 minutes the village is drenched! How refreshing it felt at first until the humidity follows it like a bad dream...
There are many, many foreigners here as this is a big tourist time apparently. Lots of Brits, Aussies, Germans, French and Americans around with the sounds of Bob Marley carried in the air...
I make my way out and go for a walk around ending up in a shop where I buy a few shirts as the clothes, although cotton or cotton/hemp mix, are so heavy and the heat for me is sweltering at around 35/36 then adding in the humidity. Here I stay for a couple of hours trying things on in the piles and piles of offerings...
The shopkeeper was really very hunger and so he told me that he trusted me and asked if I would mind if he went off to have his lunch. Off he went while I locked the door and continued to go through the very light weight clothes there. I so appreciated that he had such trust in me (maybe just his belly!) to wonder off and leave me in seclusion with the ceiling fans blowing away my cares...
Having a nice long chat with the shopkeeper and collecting my buys, I headed onward to my room for a glorious long cold shower and quick change. Then a walk down to the beach...
Mamallupuram is reknown as the world's stone sculpture capital and that is remembered the closer one gets to the beach where the sounds of pounding and carving perk interest in visiting the many, many shops that carry every deity and symbol which holds interst...I meet a nice gentleman named Rajan and we, along with some french people who he is teaching how to sculpt, have a nice chat together. He has made so many sculptures for groups of people involved in yoga. I really want a statue of Patanjali, the sage who wrote the Yoga Sutras which are the basis of yogic philosophy, but will wait and get it later as I do not feel like lugging it along...
Ragan and I had dinner together. He took me to a place where I could have some salad and some vegs. Lots of seafood available of course but I am not interested.
After relaxing for awhile in the ocean air I head back to the room in hopes of a restful sleep...
No luck...I wake numerous times as the heat for me is unbearably, uncomfortable.
After a nice shower I head for some breakfast and meet Rajan at his shop. We were to head south around 15km on his motorbike to visit some temples and the tribal peoples in the area. Quite a spontaneous gesture that I appreciated. Rajan has a government charitable trust, Aroundhyen Charitable Trust (ACT), which supports the assistance of this tribe.
I had dreamed and prayed for a monsoon while here and low and behold just before we entered the village that contains some of the biggest temples in south India, a downpour nourished and drenched every part of my being with such delight! Thank goodness we were close by as the roads filled with water so very quickly although every drop was a gift to me!
There while the rains came down we scooted in the temple entrance, which was enormous, with the locals to await it's end. I was in heaven...The main temple we were to visit has 550 steps to climb to the top but with the waters gushing down the rows of stairs, it was now impossible to do. Rather, Rajan took me to another group of mindblowing temples where the carving is just incredible...One area set off on it's own was currently being visited by a mother lamb and her baby and as well a local gentleman had taken up the top platform of a large piece of sculpture, which was to represent a turtle, for an afternoon nap...
After spending sometime inside admiring and gasping at the details as well as winessing a puja, a spiritual offering to Shiva at this temple, we set off again since the rains had stopped.
Along the roadside locals riding bicycles heaving with goods, as well the children dressed in their colourful wraps, waved and shouted out greetings for which smiles are exchanged and the heart flings open...
Meeting the tribal peoples was a great honor. We arrive to the giggles and screams of joy from the children. Everyone knows and loves Rajan. His selflessness and kindness has found a trust in their hearts.
The elders arrive and I am introduced. Thatched huts rest among the palm trees and the silence in this area away from everything is welcomed. It is very hot here... One water pump between the 30 families. There is a small one room schoolhouse there constructed with the gift from a german and italian lady. A plaque on the wall outside is in remembrance of their generousity...I would like to help as much as I can...I have taken pictures of the tribe and enjoyed fresh coconut from one of the elders. When it is time to go the children all gather for final pictures and flowers are lovingly placed in my hair. Each and everyone wants a turn to hold my hands and even just to look. Fingers trace the veins hidden under the white, white skin that is definitely vanilla in flavour compared to their rich chocolate veil...'Pens, pens', are a big request for their school and Rajan promises to bring them on his next trip.
We leave yet my heart and my thoughts remain there for quite sometime.. We moved across the rice paddy fields where the farmer, head draped in a scarf, guided his bulls through the water and trails so perfected placed in the fertile soils. The back of a motorbike is the way to connect with the world around and everyone in it. Waves are returned and smiles are shared...I have to say this is the most moving day I've experienced since leaving home and I am so grateful for it...
Back in the village I move on to find sustanance as I haven't eated for some time except for the wonderful coconut. I meet a lovely lady from Israel at the restaurant and she introduced me to her brother so as to download the pictures I have collected so far. I haven't taken that many but the one's I have are nice!
Tomorrow I head back to Chennai to catch my train and continue on...
All my love till then and forever...
Om
Jennifer